Photographing the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) can be a long cold test of patience.
I will not attempt to recreate all the excellent information published by Patrick J. Endres at his Alaska Photography Blog as he does a pretty good job of outlining what it takes. In fact, when I first became interested in making my own captures of the Northern Lights I found Patrick’s site with a Google search. He gave me enough inspiration and information to make me dangerous.

March 9 2011 Aurora display
I am located in Southcentral Alaska, specifically Anchorage. That is about 350 miles south of where Patrick is located. Weather and light pollution conditions are quite a bit different. I must travel a minimum of 50 miles from home to find light free skies. In the winter, the weather is frequently overcast due to the close proximity of the warm Gulf of Alaska. I was able to stake out a decent couple of viewing areas to the south. However, while the view itself can be spectacular, the images may lack the “human” link that you see in many of Patrick’s photos. Many of his include people, habitations, or other signs of human life that helps the viewer place him or herself within the photo. I think that link can lend to commercial success.

March 01, 2011 Aurora over Chugach. Red - Green - Gold
My skill is nowhere near Patrick’s but I have put together a short list of what works for me.
- Check the University of Alaska Aurora Forecast site at http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast. Watch not only the long term but the short term and Aurora Activity by Solar Rotation as well. If the numbers are in the 3 or above range, the chances are good for sightings.
- Prepare. Here in Alaska we must venture out into the snow and cold for the Aurora. This means dressing well and preparing your gear for the cold. There are many techniques for dealing with cold and I will not list them here.
- Look for the Aurora between 10:00pm and Midnight and again in the 3:00am to 6:00am range. Statistically, the lights are most active in those times.
- Use a fast lens. This is most important. This means a low ƒ stop. I would not use anything slower than an ƒ/2.0 lens, ƒ/1.4 or 1.2 would be even better. Focal length should be close to “normal” (50mm for film and FX digitals – 35mm for DX digitals) or wide angle (meaning shorter than either 50mm or 35mm).
- Use a tripod. Preferably with a remote release of some kind.
- Using the view finder for focus and framing will be almost impossible. Aim the camera in the direction of the Aurora, take a shot, and view the results on the LCD. Then adjust as required.
- Pre-focus to infinity. Thats how far away the lights are so just go ahead and do it.
- Set the aperture to the lowest ƒ stop and leave it there. You will need all the light you can get.
- Take a spare charged battery, the cold is hell on battery life.
- Patience.
I shoot Nikon so I am not going to pretend to know what other equipment settings should be.
I set the D700 for -
- Aperture Priority
- Lowest ƒ stop
- pre-focus to infinity
- ISO 1600
- High ISO Noise Reduction On
- Long Term Exposure Noise Reduction On
- -0.33 EV
These are starting settings. I can review the image and adjust accordingly as needed.
For lenses I have the following Nikkors. (Note: these are all manual focus)
- Noct-Nikkor 58mm ƒ/1.2 (engineered for exceptional low light performance)
- 50mm ƒ/1.4 (FX normal – 75mm telephoto DX)
- 35mm ƒ/1.4 (slight wide angle FX – normal DX)
- 28mm ƒ/2 (wide angle FX and DX)
- 24mm ƒ/2 (wide angel FX and DX)
All except the Noct were reasonably priced used purchases via eBay, KEH, or from fellow members of the Nikonians website. The 50mm ƒ/1.4 is relatively inexpensive and quite good quality. It is considered “normal” on full frame digital and film Nikons and the equivalent of a 75mm short telephoto on the DX bodies. Over the years I have picked up several versions of the “nifty fifty”, the last was an AF-D model that was less than $200.
I had to do quite a bit of shopping to find good clean AI’D and AI versions of the 35mm, 28mm, and 24mm. AI (auto indexing) is required for metering on the D300, D700 and up Nikon digitals.

Aurora over the Chugach
The stretch of highway I use sees about one vehicle per half hour or less as the night wears on. It can be quite lonely in the cold and dark. There is an owl close by my spot that announces his presence by “hooting” long and low in the dead silence. Occasionally there will be other animal visitors that I can hear moving nearby in the snow or making other noises but I have not been able to spot them.
Good hot black coffee, chemical hand warmers, Duofold long handles, insulated gloves, knit head gear, down parka, felt lined Mukluks, a MagLite with fresh batteries, a dependable vehicle with good winter survival gear are just some of the items I take along in the dark.
I have been anxiously awaiting clear dark skies with good forecast numbers even since I missed the huge solar event in September. I was kicking my butt for missing that one but work and weather seemed to conspire against me on that one.